More Than A Bucket List Item- Kathmandu

I am writing this with a view of the never-ending Atlantic Ocean, which has become my home in the past months. This time a year ago, I was in a different place—not only physically but mentally, too. I was on the verge of burnout, despite being a nomad for two years. I felt tired but strangely energized to do something physically, mentally, and logistically exhausting.

I had long been dreaming about seeing the "roof of the world"—the highest peaks our Earth created. I grew up reading stories about the CzechoSlovak expeditions in the Himalayas, and I read about the incredible efforts of Mallory, Hillary, Tenzing, and many others. Getting time off is more important than you may think. Getting time off in nature, while doing physical exercise, is the best thing you can do.

Manaslu Sounds Cool, Let's Do It

Before getting to Nepal, I had a short stint in India. I wrote about my travels there earlier this year. We took one of the most scenic flights in the world. Varanasi to Kathmandu. Our plane was cruising at an altitude of 8,000 meters and far in the back we could see the snow-capped, monumental peaks of the Himalayas. My heart was already racing. After a sharp landing, we landed.

We had no plan. I got a contact on a local guide from my friends who did Manaslu Circuit Trek a few years back. I had my eyes on this specific trek, as I heard it's one of the "less damaged" by tourism. Well, everyone wants to go & see the highest mountain. Mount Everest. Not only do people go & spend north of 60,000$ to climb it, but even more of them trek to the Base Camp.

Each year, approximately 40,000 people trek to Everest Base Camp, making it one of the most popular trekking routes in the world.

In contrast, the Manaslu Circuit Trek sees significantly fewer tourists, with around 2,000 to 3,000 trekkers annually.

So I knew I wanted something more authentic.

Peter Hámor, my fellow Slovak and the conqueror of the Crown of the Himalayas (climbing all 14 of the 8,000-meter mountains), talks about the Manaslu Circuit Trek being perfect for acclimatizing before his expeditions. As it hugs the border with Tibet, apart from offering a scenic view, it gives an interesting insight into how the local communities live and what aspects of the original cultures of the Nepali and Tibetans have been preserved. I will elaborate more on this region in my upcoming newsletters.

Tourism In Kathmandu

Tourism in Kathmandu has long been a gateway for adventure seekers, particularly travelers drawn to Nepal for its stunning mountain landscapes and rich cultural heritage. Trekking in Nepal became popular in the 1970s when trails like the Annapurna Circuit and Everest Base Camp were established, opening the door to mass trekking tourism.

Young travelers, inspired by the stories of the first Himalayan adventurers and the opportunity to connect with nature, flocked to Nepal. Nepal's main trekking seasons are the spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) when the weather is clear and stable, ideal for hiking and exploring the Himalayas.

Before we departed Varanasi, I sent a message to my guide contact. He mentioned that he just happened to be at Kathmandu airport and would wait for our arrival. I was traveling with my friends Jamie and Lukas. As we boarded the plane, we noticed two well-built young chaps in techwear. I figured they were in for a hiking trip. Their plan was similar to ours—nonexistent. So we decided to team up.

Our guide took us to his office and planned our adventure. He asked about our abilities and were given reassurance. 4 confident but trained hikers. From both sides of the Atlantic pond. Some from deserts, some from the mountains some from by the ocean.

We were given 24 hours to put our sh*t together. Last minute shopping spree of the knock-off brands. Double-check your backpack weights. Figuring out if you do or don't need a puff jacket. Sleeping bag? How about crampons? Is it going to snow? Will I need hiking poles?

All this and much more. As I was buying some last-minute medicine gentlemen approached me about my trekking option. I humbly mentioned "Nothing crazy, just Manaslu Circuit" and he said "That's more than most hikers that come here are capable of. Come with me for some altitude sickness practical tips"

And that's the story how I met David Durkan. A Welshman who has been living in Nepal since 1976 & pioneered the first group trekking through the Himalayas.  He used the funds he earned to build various projects in Nepal. Among others school roof, a teacher’s wage, wood-saving kitchen stoves (sold at cost), medicine for health posts, books for schools… He took me to his store where local women were selling products made from the rubbish in Kathmandu. You can see more of his recent activities here at Mountain People organization.

He was the one who told me to prioritize the comfort of my feet in my running shoes rather than bringing big, hiking boots. I will be forever grateful for that one.

We finished our packing & had our first dinner with our local guide, Gopal. We decided to have one last beer. Headed to Sam's bar we got a pint of Gorkha and played some cards. A lonely guy was seated alone next to us, minding his own business over his Gorkha. After few minutes I realized this was no one else but Conrad Anker. One of the most accomplished American mountaineers, known for climbing Everest, making first ascents, and his role in discovering George Mallory's body on Everest.

So was our short & hectic time in Kathmandu. But we knew we were going to be back right after our trekking was completed.