The Westernmost Ice Cream in Europe - Flores

Do you ever wonder where the westernmost point of Europe lies? You can find many "ends of the world" in continental Portugal or along the western coast of Spain. They may look dramatic, symbolizing the end of continental Europe, but that’s not where Europe truly ends. Neither are the islands I’ve described in previous weeks. The real edge of Europe lies further beyond. So far from continental Europe that you’re more likely to see a 50-year-old local man fixing his roof while wearing a Tom Brady Patriots jersey than one from Benfica or Sporting. So far that the winter waves can reach a staggering 20 meters or more.

This is a continuation of my travels through the Macaronesian islands.

After time spent on Pico and Faial, we set off to the further reaches of the Azores. This time, our sights were set on Flores and Corvo. These two islands are located on the western side of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a tectonic boundary that separates the North American Plate from the Eurasian and African Plates. The ridge itself is like an underwater mountain range, spanning a significant portion of the Atlantic Ocean, including the Azores. It forms one of the world’s longest mountain ranges, most of which lies beneath the sea.

While the Eastern Azores thrive with life due to São Miguel being the most inhabited, and the Central Azores being well-connected by ferry lines, the Western Azores are truly remote.

Flores? Which One?

Flores was first discovered in 1452 by the Portuguese navigator Diogo de Teive. The island gets its name from the abundance of wildflowers that covered it when explorers first arrived. Today, Flores has a population of around 3,400 people, with tourism being modest compared to other Azorean islands. Approximately 12,000 tourists visit annually, mainly during the summer months from June to September. The island is connected to mainland Portugal by flights operated by SATA Air Açores, though the number of flights is limited, with most originating from Lisbon and Ponta Delgada.

Flores can be affected by hurricanes, as it lies in the path of storms that form in the Atlantic, particularly those originating near the United States. Hurricane Lorenzo in 2019 caused significant damage on the island, reminding locals and visitors alike of the raw power of nature in this part of the world.

3 fun facts about Flores:

1. Flores is part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve network, thanks to its diverse ecosystems.
2. The island’s lakes—Lagoa Negra and Lagoa Comprida—are famous for their contrasting dark and clear waters, adding a mystical allure to the island’s landscape.
3. Flores is one of the greenest places in the Azores, with hydrangeas lining almost every road.

We visited Flores during the peak season, and since the island isn’t a major tourist hotspot, we were fortunate to book accommodation with a local couple through Airbnb. Most of the island's tourism is concentrated around Santa Cruz and the capital, where accommodations (known as "alojamentos") are available. You can even enjoy a delicious seafood meal or steak right next to the airport, where you can plane spot SATA’s ATRs while cutting into your rib-eye. It’s important to note that public transport on the island is practically non-existent, so renting a vehicle—be it a car, van, or scooter—is essential. Another option is to hire a tour guide to take you around the island.

We didn’t have any of this booked in advance, but luckily, our host had an old car available for rent, and everything fell into place. We had a few miradouros (viewpoints), waterfalls, and hikes saved, but as soon as we hit the road, we kept stopping at places that stunned us. While I thought hydrangea season in São Miguel was something special, Flores took it to a whole new level. You couldn't get lost—every road was lined with them. Not only the flowers, but ocean pools, viewpoints, lighthouses, and cliffs—everything felt pure and untouched.

To my surprise, Flores looked completely different from the green of São Miguel or the black volcanic landscapes of Pico. It gave off a vibe that I had expected to find in the Faroe Islands or somewhere further north, rather than in the Azores.

We didn’t have a strict “must-do” list, but one thing we weren’t going to miss, though, was swimming in the waterfalls. When the Atlantic felt too cold, we drove to some of the tallest waterfalls in the world and dipped into the fresh, non-salty water.

If you're looking for the top five places to visit in Flores, or the best restaurants to try, you won’t find them here. I have very few points saved in my Google Maps for Flores, and that’s the beauty of it. The island is so pure, so off-the-beaten-path, that you don’t need a highlight reel. It’s all one vast botanical garden in the middle of the cold North Atlantic, and wherever you go, you’ll be rewarded with views, feelings, and experiences unlike anything you’ve witnessed before.

Whether it’s riding through farm roads up the hills, climbing over fences and being chased by cows, or dining in a restaurant with plastic chairs but incredibly fresh steak or seafood, you’ll feel the remoteness of this stunning, authentic, and unique place.